Bustles
What are we talking about here? The additional storage space in the rear of a tank’s turret? Or the stern of a boat that prevents the back end from squatting below the waterline? Or maybe the old Cadillac Seville?
None of the above. We are talking women’s fashion - wedding fashion to be exact!
A Quick History of the Bustle
Photo Courtesty of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art
Traditionally, bustles were padded undergarments, worn by women in the 1870s and 1880s, to add fullness to their back side. Think Kim Kardashian’s backside on steroids.
The 1800s was a rapidly evolving time in European women’s fashion thanks in large part to technology and Queen Victoria’s influence. (Fun fact: Queen Victoria had such an impact on fashion, she’s the reason brides wear white still to this day - but that’s a story for another day.)
Eyelets were created in the 1820s, allowing for corsets to become increasingly tighter and create the classic hourglass figure. The 1830s and 1840s saw an increase in large undergarments, long corsets, and very puffy sleeves.
The creation of synthetic dyes and the first industrial sewing machines during the 1850s allowed for the mass availability of bright shades of cloth and cheap clothing to many classes of people. Hoop skirts replaced the larger garments of the past decade and became extremely popular in this decade as they were lighter and easier for the wearer to move. Hoop skirts created the large bell-shaped skirts of the era, allowing for skirts to grow wider and wider as the years progressed.
Finally, in the late 1860s, bell-shaped skirts began to fall out of fashion, in favor of more voluminous rears. A staple of 1870 and 1880 upper-class European women’s fashion, bustles accentuated the figure of the wearer and gave a more sexy silhouette, adding texture and design to the back of a dress. Something that today could be seen as uptight and repressive, bustles were extremely innovative for the time.
Nowadays, bustles have a similar function to those of olden days - to shorten the train of the dress, usually by adding material to the wearer’s backside - but they are saved for special occasion outfits, rather than every day wear. When a dress is properly bustled, it makes it easier for the wearer to move and dance, and prevents the dress train from having to be carried in ones hand, being stepped on, ripped, or dragged across the floor all night. There are several types of dress bustles, and each has pros and cons.
Types of Bustles
The most-common are the American Bustle (a.k.a the “Over Bustle”), the French Bustle (aka the “Under Bustle”), the Ballroom Bustle, and the Wristlet Bustle, but there are actually quite a few others!
American Bustle: The train is fastened over the back of the dress at multiple points creating waterfalling folds down the length of the dress. The longer and heavier the dress train, the more connection points are needed. Sometimes a sash or bow can be used to hide the connection points and add extra detail to the gown, this type of bustle is best used on a-line or ball gowns, and gowns made of lace, chiffon, and flowy materials.
French Bustle: Also called the “Under Bustle”, the goal is to tuck the train underneath the skirt and create neat and tidy folds of fabric at the back of the dress. French bustles are often more sturdy, and should be considered for heavier dresses or satin, crepe, and lace dresses with heavy linings. French bustles are also great for ball gowns, mermaid gowns, and fit-and-flare silhouettes.
Ballroom Bustle: This bustle hides the train completely by fastening it underneath the skirt at several attachment points, allowing the bustled dress train to disappear and create subtle pleats at the back of your dress, rather than creating an obvious bustle. Ballroom bustles are not the best choice for flowy fabrics, but would be great on satin or crepe dresses.
Train Flip Bustle: Similar to the Ballroom Bustle, the Train Flip Bustle hides the train by fastening it to itself, giving the final look of a floor length gown with a very full bottom. This type of bustle is great for ball gowns.
Royal Bustle: An elaborate, vintage looking bustle by gathering and affixing the dress at multiple points to create dramatic folds that add texture and interest to the back of the wedding gown.
Wristlet Bustle: A loop is attached to the bottom of the dress so that the wearer can physically lift the dress train off of the floor and avoid complicated bustles. This is also an easy bustle for the wearer to do by themselves.
Side Sling Bustle: This bustle creates an asymmetrical look by attaching the train to a point on the wearer’s hip. It is very easy to do and looks beautiful on a dress that already contains folds or pleats.
Austrian Bustle: This bustle is perfect for gowns with intricate details and easy for someone to help you bustle your train using. Once seen as an uncommon type of bustle, the Austrian Bustle is quickly gaining in popularity. The gown is gathered down the middle and through the back to create an eye-catching shape and the illusion of vertical ruching.
English Bustle: The attachment points of an English Bustle circle the entirety of the skirt of the dress, rather than solely the back of the dress. English Bustles are also the best for a long train, fitted wastes, and emphasizing the waste without drawing the eye away from the rest of the dress’s details.
Things to keep in mind/plan for?
Bustles are not standard. When you purchase your wedding dress, you will need to have a bustle installed by the person doing your alterations. Before they get started, discuss the options with them on what type of bustle would work best on your dress, given the design, shape, and fabric of your dress, any hemming needs, and your preferences on how you want to wear the bustle.
Bring someone to your final fitting. This is a great time for the person doing your alterations to show you how the bustle works. It is extremely helpful to have someone else know how to bustle your dress to help on the day of, and pictures and videos of the process are invaluable to help on your wedding day.
Don’t stress if your bustle breaks. Bustles are usually made with loops and buttons or hooks, tasked with holding up a heavy amount of fabric. As you spin and dance, or mingle with guests who step on your dress, your bustle may break. If it does, we have a quick and easy solution for you - a tagging gun. That’s right - the small, plastic tool that is used in retail stores to attach price tags to merchandise. A couple of well placed plastic fasteners can be a quick and simple solution to a broken bustle (we speak from experience - we’ve had to help out a few brides with their bustles). Your other option can be to pack safety pins or a small sewing kit and have a friend or family member quickly repair the broken loop or button.
